New Year’s Eve is a night of celebration all around the world. But this year, we celebrated in style with a historic Welsh tradition in the rural Mid-Wales town of Llanwrtyd Wells.

We usually get together at a friend’s house to ring in the new year. But this year, one of my good friends suggested trying something different. It sounded quirky, fun and a little bit weird, but we said yes. And a group of 16 of us descended on Llanwrtyd Wells for the Welsh folk festivities known as Mari Lwyd.

What is the Mari Lwyd?

The event is beleived to have ancient pagan origins, signifying good fortune and fertility for the coming year.

This old Welsh tradition centres on the Mari Lwyd, which translates as the grey mare. The centrepiece of the event is a decorated horses skull on a pole, which is carried by a person dressed in a white gown who controls the Mari’s mischievous behaviour.

As creepy and eerie as it sounds, the skull was adorned with a green ribbon mane, bells and shiny red baubles for eyes. Somehow, it even looked like it was smiling and it was far from the nightmarish Halloween spectacle I had imagined.

What happens at the event?

Starting at 10pm at the Neuadd Arms pub in the heart of Llanwrtyd, we were met with the sound of drums in the town square outside. It all kicked off with some lively samba drumming, inviting the crowd to dance and join a procession following the Mari Lwyd around the town.

Taking things up a notch before the procession began, we had the chance to light flaming torches to carry on the walk. Once the first few torches were lit, everyone came together as one big team, with strangers sharing their flames and lighting each others torches – a theme that continued throughout the procession whenever the flames died in the wind. It was a great way of breaking the ice and getting to know each other in one of the most welcoming and friendly events I’ve ever attended.

With torches burning and providing light and warmth in the icy night air, we set off in a lively procession behind the Mari at 10:30pm. Spirits were high as we marched through the town, although I feared for the safety of the wooden bridge with all those flaming torches… but it survived the event unscathed! There must have been a hundred or more participants weaving through the town raising flaming torches to light the Mari’s way.

Following the local tradition, we stopped at hotels and BnBs along the way, and at each stop, the Mari knocks the door to be greeted by the residents. In the past, the Mari would start a poetic battle in Welsh songs and rhymes (called pwnco), and the residents would battle back, trying to refuse the Mari and her followers entry. The goal was for the Mari to win the battle, gain entry to the establishment, and enjoy food and drinks inside while bringing in good luck for the new year. So, as the procession moved through the night, we enjoyed a feast of mulled wine, mince pies, sausage rolls and chocolates to sustain and warm us on the walk.

At the final stop – the Abernant Lake Hotel – the Mari banged on the door once more. The residents opened up, and in a comedic twist, slammed the door in the Mari’s face, leading to laughter from the crowd. But before we knew it, the residents were inviting us all for a final glass of mulled wine on the lawn before we marched back to the Neuadd Arms, torches fading in the night.

All in all, the festive procession lasted around an hour, with 3 stops along the way. The walk was gentle and flat, suitable for all ages. We even had some four-legged friends joining us on the procession!

When we returned back to the town square, we enjoyed more samba and dancing in the run up to midnight, drumming into 2026 in true traditional Welsh style.

Top tips for Mari Lwyd

When: 31st December, starting at 10pm

Where: The Mari sets off from the Neuadd Arms in Llanwrtyd Wells, which is a lively hub at the centre of the town. After midnight, you can enjoy live music there, late into the night.

Booking: There’s no need to book tickets for the event. Just turn up and get involved in the fun.

Cost: The event is free! But to support it, you can buy a torch and get involved in the festivities.

Where to stay?
Llanwrtyd Wells is a small town with limited accommodation that books up fast. So be sure to book in advance  I stayed in the Llanwrtyd Hall Angelis Retreat, which I’d highly recommend. Not only was it one of the places where the Mari stopped to knock on the door, but its also a cosy and comfortable family-run BnB and the owners are exceptionally friendly and welcoming. It’s dog friendly too!

Where to eat?
There are several pubs serving food in the area, but you’ll need to book a table in advance to avoid disappointment, as it is one of the busiest nights of the year for Llanwrtyd. We left it too late to book, but we still had a great time enjoying chips out in the cold in nearby Builth Wells.

What to wear?
People turned up in all sorts, including fairy lights and head-dresses! But make sure you wrap up warm in a good coat, hat and gloves, and comfortable shoes for walking. Don’t forget to check the weather forecast – the Mari will still venture out if it rains!

And there’s more…
Llanwrtyd Wells is the smallest town in Britain but it has a big personality. It is known for its quirky events throughout the year, from ‘bog snorkeling’ to ‘Man V Horse racing’ and more. Check out the organisers – Green Events – for more details!